Men as objects of desire
Compared to the mucho macho approach you see in other cultures, Danish men have a more understated approach to masculinity. Copenhagen Exclusive caught up with Creative Director Henning Kern from Dyrberg/Kern, known for their sumptuous jewelry and accessories for women. A recipient of the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year, they’ve recently launched D/K Man, giving men plenty of permission to be objects of desire.
Henning Kern rolls up for our interview looking sleek and slim in his silver jacket and jeans, as he flashes me his mischievous, bright white smile. Style savvy and extremely articulate, with a quick wit and high emotional IQ, Henning is a walking-talking example of Denmark’s low-key approach to luxury. Simple, streamlined with a twist. In this case, it’s his astute insight into men, women and the importance of adornment and allure.
Henning met with his design partner, Gitte Dyrberg, in 1985 when they were attending Copenhagen Design School. “We were lovers. And we soon realized that we had a lot of creativity in common, and shared the same style ideas,” explains Henning. They started out creating a women’s clothing line featured at the Copenhagen Fashion Fair. What the buyers sparked to most was their jewelry, which they quickly put together in the kitchen using curtain rings from flea markets transformed into earrings. “In the 80s it was ‘Dynasty’, ‘Dallas’ and broad shoulders. The bigger the better approach to design and dressing,” adds Henning. Together they brought Danish minimalism to glam and have evolved Dyrberg/Kern to include elegant accessories, time pieces and eyewear. The result is a beautiful brand in demand, currently sold in 30 countries around the globe.
“All styles are named after heroic multi-millionaires, race car drivers, rock stars and porn stars.”
Their line of jewelry and accessories for men was launched just two years ago, and the sales are accelerating as we speak. Henning and Gitte bring glamour with a touch of humor to D/K Man. Each piece is named after a heroic multi-millionaire race car driver, rock star or porn star, such as Stryker, Mick, Depp, Sean (as in Connery), Dean (as in James), Rockefeller and Getty. This strategic move positions the line as high-end but attainable. Coming from a country known for promoting sexual equality, Henning sees the role of men’s jewelry much the same as for women, “It should make you feel sexier than you already are.”
How do Danes express their masculinity compared to other cultures? From my experience as a woman here, they’re missing some much appreciated male gestures, like holding the door open for high-heeled women with way too many shopping bags. According to Henning, “We are more open to role reversals. We like to see ourselves as individuals, whether male for female. And as a forward-thinking country open to innovative, untraditional ideas. It’s not part of our heritage to have a formal dress code. When Danes visit other countries, we often make blunders because we speak and dress more freely.” Wearing sneakers with a suit might be a fashion faux-pas in some cultures, but in Denmark it reflects a laid-back approach to most things. Where understated over rules the over-the-top form of expression seen elsewhere.
D/K Man features a cool-under-the-collar rebel attitude replete with Scotch on the rocks, signaling a modern masculinity that’s unmistakable. Despite the current trend in fashion encouraging men to pamper themselves in ways traditionally targeted towards women such as getting facials, bikini waxes and the like. Just as women are taking over roles traditionally for men, Henning views the trend as allowing men to be more vain, something typically seen in women. “Men are being seen as sex objects. And they’re shopping for themselves more than ever. Our men’s jewelry and accessories are intended to enhance the natural masculinity of the wearer. There’s nothing feminine about it.” In terms of role reversals, the outcome can be all the more enticing. As Henning points out, “When a woman wears something masculine, like a tuxedo, it’s extremely sexy.” (Suddenly I know just what to wear to my next close encounter.)
If first impressions last, then a man’s jewelry and accessories instantly signal his stance on style. The simplicity, modernity and clean aesthetic of D/K Man is, without a doubt, impressive. Especially with their partnering of sterling silver, stainless steel, leather and semi-precious, hand-cut stones like malachite, black onyx, tiger eye and bone. The look is luxurious. The consumers are cosmopolitan. And the accoutrements include wallets, mobile phone strings and card holders as essentials in dressing for success. “What do you want to signal when you take your wad of dollar bills out of your pocket?” An apt question from Henning, who is keen on each piece being a conversation piece, designed to last over time. Because just as important as a handshake are the killer cufflinks on your cuffs.
In their recent women’s line, Amphora refers to Greek mythology and Roman architecture. Baroccoco combines Baroque and Rococo. And Hammam incorporates Arabic ornamentations with North African influences. Henning and Gitte allude to a range of eras and alter the aesthetics to bring a new expression they can call their own. At the same time, they keep a close eye on the catwalks in London, Paris, Milan and New York. What’s unique about their style compared to typical Danish design is their decorative approach. Danish furniture is seen as cool by some, but cold by others. (Where less isn’t more, it’s actually less.) As Henning notes, “Danish design is founded on functionality. That’s why the 50s and 60s furniture we’re famous for is an architect’s dream.” Dyrberg/Kern’s designs are a bit un-Danish in that they’re more ornamental and emotional, but balanced with a streamlined Scandinavian-style simplicity. The design function for them is to make the wearer feel fabulous.
Prior to each collection, Henning and Gitte agree on which artistic path to take, the aesthetic framework and soul of the collection. “Gitte is more introverted and creates the thrust of the design line, where I’m the one to communicate it.” Henning is more commercially minded, in touch with the market and customers. But their roles aren’t black and white. They are more like Ying and Yang. Empowerment is an imperative for both the men’s and women’s line, and so is an element of provocation. They’re designing the art of seduction. And yet, they never limit themselves to one creative path and always embrace opposites in the same season. “For every trend there is a counter trend,” says Henning. “If it’s retro, we go futuristic. Ecological? We go synthetic.” There’s a range of styles to appeal to the many facets of the person - and their persona.
“Women hold up half the sky.” Ruby Turner, soul singer
Tomorrow Henning is flying off to Berlin to check out the art scene, architecture, and the aesthetic ambiance overall. His creative mode is always switched on. A poem or song lyric could be the perfect departure point for a pendant. Rumanian cubist Constantin Brancusi was the inspiration for one collection. The winter palace in St. Petersburg is the inspiration for their fall 2007 collection, “Erémitage”. With two collections a year comprising about 200 styles, a 2006 turnover in double-digit million euros, plus this year’s launch of time pieces and eyewear for men, Dyrberg/Kern must be doing something right. The understated masculinity of their D/K Man is the perfect partner to the sultry “Atélier” collection for women. And their “Goddess” collection is a tribute to divas since the dawn of time, where they remind us that, “Women hold up half the sky.” I couldn’t agree more.
August 2007